Plan your Eske-ape: Take time to relax in one of Ireland’s most sought-after and captivating luxury resorts

IN these Covid-19 restricted times, plans are impossible to make. The R number currently denies society's movement under the second serious lockdown of this pandemic, but there will come a time again when relaxation, recreation and a romantic retreat are the relevant R words of choice.

It was during a more optimistic period six weeks ago, prior to the new measures being implemented, that I, along with my wife Kate, managed to enjoy the three Rs as we returned to a favourite haunt at the base of the Blue Stack mountains in Donegal.

Eleven years ago, we came across Lough Eske Castle, just outside Donegal Town, by chance. It was at the end of a long day visiting prospective wedding venues in Fermanagh, Cavan and Sligo.

Lough Eske is now renowned as one of Ireland's most sought-after luxury resorts for celebrating your nuptials, but in 2009, having been beautifully restored from ruins just a few years earlier and operated by American firm Solis, the castle was attempting to build up its reputation. It was in those days, your hidden gem.

Within minutes of our arrival, the castle had captured our hearts with its modern and sophisticated style, yet paying homage to the land's heritage.

The warm welcome from the courteous doormen and gorgeous smell of peat on the open fires from the drawing rooms as we entered via the grand doors, was truly inviting while the setting, on the banks of the River Eske and in acres of land, simply stunning.

A year later, we were fortunate to be granted permission for the first ever outdoor ceremony and I had these rather grandiose ideas of how we would spend the eve of the wedding exploring the incredible attractions of south east Donegal while sampling the delights of the town in the evening and then the following morning play a round of golf at the world famous links, Murvagh, where Tiger Woods practised prior to the Open Championship.

Of course, none of that came to pass. Weddings, especially when organising, seldom allow for free time.

Therefore, a decade on, it was time to return and make up for missed adventures.

The castle, which has a sister hotel, Titanic in Belfast, has returned to Irish management in the interim, they have extended the floor space of the award-winning Cedars restaurant, where breakfast and dinner is served, to allow for more diners. The cellar bar, which was only open on request 10 years ago, is now totally operational and bedecked with vintage black and white Irish portraits from renowned Irish photographer, Father Browne, who famously disembarked the Titanic prior to its ill-fated voyage. The bar is now named in his honour, but apart from that, any alterations have been minimal.

Naturally, during this pandemic, Lough Eske management have been forced to introduce Covid combating measures with plastic transparent screens at the reception desk and all staff wearing visors, hand sanitisation spray is scattered around the main areas, guests are required to wear masks in all public areas, apart from when seated at a table, and to practise social distancing.

There is no 'help yourself' buffet selection at breakfast, rather you can order hot dishes at the table and then a waitress is on hand at the bottom section of the restaurant to hand out cereals, juices and fruit. Newspapers are no longer available, but the resort offers a digital version instead via your smartphone.

Rooms are thoroughly sanitised after each visit and then the door is sealed prior to the new guest's arrival.

While I was there, bars had to close that little bit earlier than normal, live music at weekends had been cut after some guests failed to adhere to social distancing measures while dancing and reservations needed to be made for use of the swimming pool, breakfast and dinner.

The swimming pool at Lough Eske

But these are minor and accepted safeguards that in no way inconvenience your short break and with capacity at the castle reduced, staff make sure your requirements are met.

The Gallery Bar is still a great place for a casual lunch or pre dinner drink, the spa with indoor swimming pool, located in a separate structure within the castle walls, offers ridiculously good treatments and the sizeable rooms - there are 97 in total - offer grand sleep inducing beds and spacious twin-sinked bathrooms with refreshing rain shower and detached bath.

You can stay within the main castle with a deluxe room or upgrade to a junior suite, which is the perfect size, should you wish to bring children with you and pop-up beds can be ordered in advance.

There are also courtyard rooms to choose from, and these are pet friendly, while for added luxury and comfort, the garden suites can be reserved.

Lough Eske Castle courtyard room

At Cedars restaurant, it's advisable, if you prefer a more intimate evening dining experience, to try and reserve a booth where you will be served up local sumptuous cuisine with a heavy emphasis on produce from the Wild Atlantic Way. The last time, we were fortunate to share a delightful Cote de boeuf, and while it wasn't available this time, the steak dish they put forward was cooked to perfection.

It can all be washed down with a bottle from the extensive and wide-ranging wine list. The genuine warmth of the Lough Eske staff was a major attraction for us 11 years ago. That hasn't changed in the intervening years. The castle, a five-star property, is also keen to promote local business and they have a number of marvellously tailored tweed products from Hanna Hats in the town to showcase, each crafted in a bespoke way.

While the castle is enchanting, it was good to head into Donegal town for the night, a 10-minute taxi from the hotel, and while the centre was understandably quiet, the Old Castle Inn, full of character and charm, produced sensational seafood and a great pint of Guinness.

The following day was all about exploring south west Donegal and the cliffs of Slieve League, which is around an hour away, through the quaint fishing town of Killybegs, where you can stop for some takeaway seafood beside the harbour, and Kilcar, home to the most picturesque sporting ground I've ever witnessed.

If you are lucky enough to slow your car down on the mountain road and catch a glimpse of a GAA game going on underneath, the vista is breathtaking, with the pitch nestled beside the Atlantic Ocean.

There are so many lovely spots to stop and explore on the way, but take time to enjoy Slieve League and all its beauty with its 600m high cliffs, which are the tallest in Europe and you can actually park at the base of the mountain, although the main parking area is recommended to take in more of the rugged coastline.

The mountain is a steady and not overly taxing climb, it's the powerful winds and brutal conditions at times that make it tougher.

Slieve League may not be as famous as the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, but they are three times higher and the views, as you head towards the summit, are a sight to behold.

If you'd prefer a more leisurely stroll, Glenveagh National Park is an option or the beaches which run from Bundoran right up to Donegal Town, including Rossnowlagh.

Experience one of these attractions and you will have completed the three Rs because Lough Eske Castle ticks the boxes for relaxation and a romantic retreat.

It certainly beats talking about the R number. Roll on the end of lockdown, for 10 years on, Lough Eske is still as captivating as ever.

For special rates and reservations at Lough Eske Castle, Donegal, visit www.lougheskecastlehotel.com

Christmas package: Your Yuletide break will begin with a complimentary night's stay on Wednesday, December 23, and encompasses Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Begin making memories with a mince pie and mulled wine reception and then decamp to the award-winning 2AA Rosette Cedars Restaurant or the more informal Gallery Bar for a Christmas Eve three course dinner made under the direction of head chef Richard McKee and his team.

On Christmas Day, guests will begin the festivities with a hearty breakfast. The Christmas Day celebration will officially commence with a lunch served in the Castle Ballroom, with a welcome glass of bubbly upon arrival as well as some uplifting live music to get you in a celebratory mood. Retreat to your room or Cara Organic Beauty Spa for a treatment, recharge the batteries before arriving to Christmas night supper and then enjoy a peaceful night's sleep in one of the hotel's spacious bedrooms. Also included in this four-night break is a three course dinner on Boxing Night.

This Christmas package starts at €889 per person sharing in a courtyard room (based on two adults sharing one room).