“Do bears really love marmalade sandwiches?” Judging by her smile, this isn’t the first time our guide, Fiona had heard this question. Today it’s asked by my 10-year-old son as we stand in a forest in Donegal watching two enormous brown bears wrestle in the grass beyond. It’s a hot day so the exertions don’t last long. Rionach, the smaller bear, climbs a log to sunbathe while her brother Donnacha takes to the lake to retrieve some floating fruit treats.
These siblings were rescued from cages in Lithuania by the animal welfare charity Bears in Mind.
They will eat marmalade, Fiona tells us, but they much prefer honey.
Paddington has a lot to answer for.
It’s the first afternoon of our family getaway to Donegal’s Inishowen Peninsula at the very top of the Wild Atlantic Way; and already we are won over. The easy road up from Dublin got us here much quicker than we expected. So far, we’ve stretched our legs and collected shells on Lisfannon Beach, marvelled at the views across Lough Swilly, enjoyed ice cream in Buncrana – and now the bears. There are wolves too …
Wild Ireland wildlife sanctuary, Bridgend, Co. Donegal
We are spending a sunny afternoon at Wild Ireland (wildireland.org), an ambitious wildlife sanctuary designed to recreate a time thousands of years ago when Ireland was covered in Celtic rainforest and home to wild bears, wolves, lynx and boar – all now long gone. But you can see all of these animals reintroduced here, along with owls, monkeys, deer, otter and lots of smaller, cuter critters too.
There are guided talks schedule at various times throughout the day and it’s worth planning your visit to coincide with these. They are very informative, and it increases your chance of getting a decent view of the animals as the guides feed or interact with them.
There is something unique about the landscape up here at the top of Ireland. It is epic in a different way to the rest of the Wild Atlantic Way – it feels new and unknown. It has only been a few hours but as we drive along the coast road with the sun beginning to set over the water, we all agreed there’s a sense we have properly gotten “away”.
Inch Island, Lough Swilly by Patryk Sadowski
It’s fair to say we have worked up an appetite and we turn off the main road toward Lough Swilly Marina to find the Railway Tavern (railwaytavern.ie) tucked away in its own little pocket of peace. It’s a cosy spot, in what was once the station house for the Londonderry & Lough Swilly Railway, where steam trains rain from 1864 all the way up to 1953. The walls are full of railway memorabilia and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. Steaks sizzling on an open grill in the centre of the dining room add to the sense of occasion and we have great fun trying to guess which ones are ours. The food is delicious, and we leave relaxed, happy and ready for a good night’s sleep.
The Railway Tavern Grill, Fahan, Co. Donegal
Our base for this two-night break is the Redcastle Hotel on the shore of Lough Foyle on the eastern side of the peninsula. Once part of the 18th century Redcastle Estate, the hotel has 93 rooms, a pool and spa, golf course and friendly and attentive staff.
It is a busy spot, popular with locals as well as tourists and without doubt has to in the running for the best view over breakfast in Ireland. Sitting by a wall of glass overlooking the water as you sip your coffee is quite the way to start the day.
We are lucky enough to bag the Olympic Suite, which has two bedrooms, one with a contemporary four-poster king. It’s a real bonus to be able to keep the kids close, but separate, and the extra-large smart TV in their bedroom is a big hit.
Redcastle Hotel and Spa, Redcastle Co. Donegal
Next morning, we head back across the peninsula to the imposing headland that is home to Fort Dunree (fortdunree.com). First established in 1798 to guard against invasion by Napoleon’s French fleet, the fort was an important spot during both World Wars. Under British control until 1938, it was used by the Irish Army until 1990. It’s like being on a film set; intriguing old military buildings are dotted about the surrounded by walking trails and spectacular scenery.
The museum itself is small and perfectly formed. There are clever interactive elements to engage the kids and the military memorabilia is thoughtfully displayed. Having great events in history distilled down to what happened in this one spot makes for a really effective experience.
Mamore Gap by Patryk Sadowski
Back on the move, we head north through the Gap of Mamore along a narrow road that stretches long and lonely into the distance. If you are in search of solitude, you will find it here.
We meet no other cars as we pas through the rolling, green-brown landscape. It is eerie and beautiful and just as breath-taking as the coastal routes.
We make a pit stop to see Glenevin Waterfall at the end of a very manageable little walk of just 1km, beside a riverside trail. It’s a lovely picnic spot and we refuel with ice cream from a little shop at the entrance before hitting the road again.
Still northwards, and this time we’re going all the way – Malin Head, the top of the island. Again, the views! This is where filming took place for Star Wars: The Last Jedi and the fans among us argue over the exact location. We take a walk along the cliffs past crashing waves at Hell’s Hole, then who can resist the lure of hot chocolate? Coffee truck Caffe Banba obliges (caffebanba.com). Ireland’s most northerly coffee shop, it definitely hits the spot.
Wild Aplaca Way overlooking The Five Fingers Strand near Malin, Co. Donegal
We’re on the road again, but it’s just a short spin to our next stop. Wild Alpaca Way (wildaplacaway.com) is a family-run business set up by John and Patricia McGonagle, not far from Malin. We are introduced to Ted and Fred, our furry companions for a walk over the Knockamany Bens. Trekking with an alpaca is a bit like walking a dog – but Ted is tall, so we are pretty much at eye level. It’s a surreal experience, looking into those deep brown eyes as we amble up the hillside.
Alpacas love to be talked to, we’re told, and it’s quite the sight, a line of people of all ages chatting away to these docile creatures as they crest the hill, the beaches of Inishowen spread out below.
We stop at a feeding post to give them grain from our hands and again a little further on to get some photos with the stunning scenery as a backdrop. The location is a winner, but the alpacas are the real star attraction here. The kids are besotted.
Our last day starts with a visit to Grianan of Aileach, a scenic hilltop fort which dates back to 1700 BC. Once home to the kings of the north, it’s one of those places where you can almost feel the history vibrating through the walls. It’s instantly gratifying – you don’t have to spend hours here to feel like you’ve seen something special.
Grianan of Aileach by Patryk Sadowski
Our final stop is Oakfield Park (oakfield-park.com) near Raphoe. Described as “a secret jewel in the heart of Donegal”, we had never heard of it before, but it’s firmly lodged in the ‘good memories’ part of my brain now. It is exactly the kind of park I love, beautifully maintained lush parklands, lakes, mature woods, thoughtful sculptures dotted about and little surprises around every corner. My 12-year-old daughter describes it perfectly as having Alice in Wonderland vibes.
There’s even a maze – a proper maze – challenging, with high hedges, big, but not so big you’ll never find your way out again. And there’s a clever smartphone app to guide you out if you get really stuck. I confess, I was bamboozled, but the kids do not give up. We sit on the grass outside and listen to their shrieks of frustration, joy and more frustration floating up from inside. They emerge beaming. We can’t leave without a go on the 4.5km narrow-gauge railway which weaves its way in and out through the trees. Then a tasty lunch outside in the sun at Buffers restaurant where we put off the drive home for as long as possible.
Inishowen is a staycation paradise. As one local man we meet laments, people holidaying at home tend to go south – to Kerry, Cork or Wexford – out of habit and tradition more than anything else. “If only they knew what they’re missing”.
How right he is.